Our Wonderful Vacation – Day # 1

Premise: Our friends – Sarah and Lisa are visiting us for 10 days and we are planning a tour of North India with them.

Disclaimer: I am donning a ‘Cynical hat’

Date: 25th Dec, 2007

1:30AM, Hyderabad Airport: There is nothing like waiting for someone or for your flight in an Indian airport. You have a lot of people as usual, in addition to that everyone in the town and their mom would be there. And added to that everyone would be standing. Yes, I do sound very cynical but believe me when I say, that I face these things with utmost patience.

So me and Sang were waiting for our friends to come out. It took about 2 1/2 hours for them to get out. In the mean time to pass our time we played a game of who is the most beautiful and who is the most ugly person. There was one moment where I mistook a Airhostess to be our friends but it didn’t take much time to recognize them once they were out! Finally Sarah and Lisa arrive. Yay.

9:30AM, Our home: I woke up to the giggles and laughs of our friends who were trying to use our bathrooms. Sangita was giving them ad-hoc classes as to how to do a “bucket bath”. I had to rush to Trinetra market to get some good old ‘toilet paper’.

11:00AM, Charminar: It was fun to go to Charminar as our first ‘tourist visit’. Both Lisa and Sarah were surprised to see the sea of people. We stood like good Samaritans in the line to get the tickets. Someone saw that some white people are standing in a colored line and got us ahead and front of the line. This did not go well with the lady who was next in the line and she kinda yelled at me for cutting the line using ‘white people’ as pretext. For a moment I felt bad (remember I am a good samaritan too) for the lady but then when I realized that our friends were charged Rs.100 and we(people of color) were charged Rs.5 I felt no pity towards anyone who is standing in line. Call it my ‘secret justification of the world’ process.

So we climbed the steps and got on top of Charminar. It has a very good view of the city around. I was trying to be careful with Sarah’s left shoulder (as she has a history of dislocating it after her ‘daily Karate class’ and ‘regular ass kicking of Josh’ practice) and also stop a whole lot of guys from just falling on top of white people. I think it’s tough life for people who are both white and girls – to be visiting India. Every Indian Romeo (or Ranjha) wants to touch them or fall in love with them. Desi Babu, Angrezi Baby!

On top of Charminar

Once we were on top of Charminar, both Sarah and Lisa were asked by random guys to have their pictures taken with them. Being the good Samaritans they are, they politely refused. But this didn’t deter some people and they just simply took pictures of our friends. It’s a weird feeling to see a Hyderabadi hero (A typical teenager with long hair and fancy pants) scramble and pull out his phone camera to take a picture of our friends before they walk away.

So, now we all realized how the rest of the India trip is going to be. It would all be stares and random flashes (the camera ones) all the way. We would get ‘Hullo’ once a while but we knew that it was meant for the whities not us.

We did a little bit of shopping. Sarah bought some bangles, Sang and Lisa bought some ‘Attar’ (scent). Again, looking at our friends the prices would automatically go up. It’s just not the Indian government who has jacked up all the ticket prices for foreigners – it also includes all the stores. Good thing we had the ‘Ninja Price Negotiater’ (hereon to be referred as NPN) – Sang who basically cut so close to the bones of the sellers that it hurts watching her haggle.

1:30PM, Our home: We got back from our Charminar trip and our friends (who are amazingly adventurous and very sporty) donned the ‘Standard Indian Aunty’ (TM) look – by wearing Indian nighties. My grand mother, mom and sisters were pretty amused to see them in that attire. They thought that both Lisa and Sarah looked like live dolls in the Indian nighties.

Then we sat down to have our scrumptious dinner. My mom is a genius. She knew before hand that some white people are coming to visit us. She knew that she couldn’t talk to them. So, she used one of her best weapons from her arsenal – food. They say, the best way to reach a (Wo)man’s heart by the stomach route. If that is true then, my mom friggin owns the route, the canal next to it, the whole neighborhood! She meticulously planned the lunch to be the best one. So, we all enjoyed our ‘Coconut gravy based fresh shrimp’. That was awesome. Period.

3:30PM, our home: As I suck totally at haggling (there are many, but this one shows up very often), the girls have decided to take my sister – Asha along with them for further shopping. Asha is also a ‘NPN’ and equals Sangita at haggling.

3:45PM, our home: Since we decided to take Asha (and Bannu comes with her by default) with us and now we were 5 in number it was tricky to get all of us in the car. Me and Sang sat in the front and I had to straddle around the gear stick. This is the beginning of the trip long harassment I would undergo with the car, auto, rickshaw drivers. The groping ended after 45 minutes as we reached our destination. Man those were some ‘jerky’ switching of gears.

4:30PM, Sultan Bazaar: Both Lisa and Sarah got some pretty bags and clothes. Asha and Sang made sure that the price was low. And the crowds kept staring at us.

6:30PM, Auto: This was the first ride in an auto for our friends. As usual we were more in number to fit in an auto, so I snuggled next to the smelly driver. At first I was kinda surprised to see that guy being so jovial and friendly and later I realized that he was drunk. Phew. So, I had to keep him sober by talking to him about random things till we got to our destination. Oh man, the things we discussed for the next 30 minutes.

7:30PM, Birla Mandir: I think that we Indians have it in our genes that we always go to places at the same time. It was so friggin crowded at Birla Mandir. I think that we ar programmed in such a way that if one Indian just thinks to visit a place – the rest of the India wants to visit the same place to. It’s magical how 50,000 other people can read your thoughts.

We stood in a line and finally had a Darshan of God. It was fun so sit and relax after the darshan. We had a good time.

As the jet lag settled on our friends, we reached home with dreams of yummy coconut curry.

Read Day # 2

Two Observations

I come across these 2 things a lot. I find these themes very common with all the Indian people I talk to.

  1. Liquor: Indian men like to brag about how long they can hold liquor! Period. They also brag about how much they can drink. If you come across any Indian and 90% chances are that they drink and if you bring the topic of going out for drinks – watch out next 10 seconds – you would hear something un-realistic claim to fame from them. I really don’t get it. I mean c’mon it’s not like you have ‘large feet’ (If you know what I mean!). You just can drink awful lot that’s all. It’s not anything to brag about. It’s a shame that you drink so much and you need so much to actually have some fun. This is something I hear every day from so many people.
  2. Past: I also come across people bragging a lot about their past. They incessantly dwell in the time period where everything was so good. I tell you, it’s a national epidemic. Most of them live in past. They are just worried about the future and compare it with past. What about the present? Hello? The stories of the past just don’t stop. What’s annoying is that most of the time these past stories are about how much they drank! C’mon let’s get a fking life and get on with it.

Wonderful Goa trip

I have never been able to take a decent vacation in my life. When I was in Singapore, US the only vacation was to visit India which was more frantic than anything in my life. Other time we have been to Chicago, Louisville but all those were still with family and hence more busy than usual time.

After our wedding we got so busy that we never got any chance to go anywhere. We still have plans to visit Peru but last week we got a wonderful opportunity to go visit Goa. We have been wanting to go there for long time and this was our first visit. God, it felt so good. We stayed in the Candolim area and hung out in Candolim, Baga, Anjuna beaches. It was so nice to just hangout at beach for whole day. Our routine was to get ready by 10am, get done with complimentary breakfast and rush to beach. Lie there reading our books, writing in journal and talking about stuff. Watching sunset was the most amazing thing!

We also travelled south to Palolem beach. It was the best beach ever I have been to. Coconut trees along the beach and not much of a crazy crowd to encounter. It was all the worth traveling 3 hours south for this beach. We milked the time we had there and spent almost all the time at beach. It was just exhilarating. I was ok with never going back home!

So, after 4 days in such environment we have decided that we would live somewhere close to water in our future. There’s just not much happening in mainland.

The most surprising thing though was, when we got back we kinda tanned a lot and my mom, sister and friends were shocked at it. In a country where we have “Fairness Cream for Men” and “Emami” is a verb, it was very shocking that we dared to behave like “gores’/firangi” and went ahead and got ourselves a tan(which was totally not intentional). I was shocked to see everyone’s response towards this “voluntary kalankit hona” event.

But who cares, if only they could see what I saw in Goa and hear the hum of the beach!

Saying Thanks in India

Today I want to talk about some behavioral differences between East and West. I have often had trouble with my friends and some relatives about saying – “Thanks”. You see whenever someone does something for me and I automatically say – “Thanks” and all my Indian friends get mad at me. It was very surprising to me. They say, between friends there are no ‘Thank You’ and ‘Please’. I don’t know which Bollywood movie propagated it, but it really has sunken into a lot of people here.

So, this got me thinking. Was I like this in 1999? Did I get mad at people just because they were saying Thanks to me? I don’t recollect very well, but I could say that I was kinda adamant and believed in no Thanks and no Please attitude. So what changed? My stay in US? Or may be I just forgot that Bollywood movie? Upon thinking I could come to only one logical answer.

In his very interesting book – “The Five Love Languages“, Gary Chapman explains how we humans have 5 ways of expressing love.

  1. Words of Affirmations
  2. Quality Time
  3. Receiving Gifts
  4. Acts of Service
  5. Physical Touch

When I think about it, usually in the west – the way people express love to each other ‘chiefly’ is – ‘Words of Affirmation’, ‘Quality Time’, ‘Physical Touch’. So, when people show love to you this way in West, you usually reciprocate in the similar fashion. Anything else like – ‘Receiving Gifts’, ‘Acts of Service’ are not very much treated as a way of showing Love – hence people usually say “Thanks” when they come across something like that. Whereas in India, it’s the other way around. People are not very vocal about expressing their love. They literally don’t touch (Who would want to, in this hot and sweaty India!). The concept of Quality time is no where nearby – as the only quality time any Indian can think of is spending time with TV. So, we Indians chiefly express love in the remaining 2 ways – ‘Gifts’ & ‘Acts of Service’.

So when my Uncle buys me an expensive watch for me, he is basically telling me that he loves me. When my mom cooks an extravagant Biryani for me, she is showing how much she loves me and she is happy the most when I eat a lot of it. So, when I say Thanks to these acts, both my Uncle and my Mom get pissed off. Our extreme opposite ways of showing love really gets people confused. Before I understood this, it was such a painful thing for me. I would dread to say Thank you to my friends and relatives.

Now the puzzle is solved for me. Phew. At least, thats what I think the reason for the behavior is.

Tata Indicomm’s Customer Care Sucks

I have a 1 Mbps broadband connection at home. I shelled 3 times the regular price of the local internet provider’s connection. I make all my payments on time. I am usually gentle when things don’t work out – giving in some time for those guys to fix things. But recently I have had a terrible experience with Tata Indicomm’s Customer care.

These guys called me on August 23rd to tell me that there won’t be internet access from 25th through 27th because of Ganesh’s nimajjan. I said it was ok as it’s just for few days. But after that it’s like they forgot about me. I called the customer service, starting from 27th September through 3rd October every day twice a day. Those guys who work there are like script monkeys. They just read what they see on the screen. When asked to talk to an Supervisor, they make me wait for 30 mins and then hang up. I don’t mind the money I wasted calling their dumb ass customer service, but I lost so much time and it was such a pain in the butt.

The Supervisors would promise me that it would be fixed tomorrow, as usual. Upon asking how I can reach them tomorrow in case it didn’t get fixed – they say that there is no way I can reach a particular Supervisor. So the system is built in such a way that it protects their employees rather than serving the customers. Since the conversations are not recorded, there is no credibility as to what they say. They can basically say anything and then deny it the next day. And making people harder to reach a Supervisor or the local technician is such a stupid idea.

So, finally the local technician came yesterday and he says that it was the communication gap between the customer service and him that took him so many days to come!!! Fucking kidding me? Communication my ass gap? I wasn’t home when he came over to fix it, but I would have been pissed off pretty bad. I spoke to him on the phone and asked him to leave his phone number at my home in case I need him again. He said yes to me but instead he told my mom he has to check some cable and will be back. And he never came back. He fixed the internet connection, but sneaked his way out. What a professional! I am sure he must have had some stupid gratification by cheating me.

What the hell? Why does India’s well known internet provider has such a sorry ass customer service? It just boggles my mind. They try to save money by hiring some newbie who hasn’t any clue about anything. I am going to make the switch soon. But in India the competitors are usually in the same boat. I heard if I go with Reliance I will have trouble with billing. Phew.

Whatever it is take my advice, if you have Tata Indicomm internet service have the local technician’s cell number on your speed dial. That way you can avoid talking to some thick brained people.

Admitting Ignorance

I recently hired a driver through one of the guys whom I know. The driver is a 20 year old young chap who is very active and dedicated to his job. When I asked him about his skills, he admitted he is a very good driver and has been driving for a long time in the city. I asked him to get a copy of his license and he got me a crappy copy of it where I can’t even tell whether it was him in the picture. That’s fine. I was ok with it.

Now coming to his direction and knowing the city skills – here he acts a little shady. When I asked him, does he know the city well – he responded he knows it actually very well. But as I see him driving everyday, I am surprised with the amount of knowledge he has about the city. He doesn’t know anything about the city. He doesn’t even know that when a Traffic police takes down his number it means that in future he might have to pay some “chalan”(fine). But do you think he would admit it? Nope. He would front on me that he knows everything. He is ashamed to ask me the directions. I had to direct him everyday.

The problem for me is that not that he doesn’t know about the city and directions. But he is so not willing to acknowledge his ignorance for once and get over with it. Instead he chooses to go through the painful process of getting embarrassed every day in front of me. He probably thinks that I would get rid of him if I know about his ignorance, but him lying and fronting doesn’t help his case either. It’s actually annoying to me to deal with his lies and also show him the way.

I have seen similar kind of behavior pattern in Software field. Mostly people from Indian origin (Disclaimer: I am Indian). A lot of people who have dreams of going to USA and making it big actually come to US without much experience. There by they become what we call – “The google researcher”. No, they don’t work for Google, but they use google  for all their programming needs. These guys somehow get inside the company that they know a lot about whatever the client needs. Once in, they pretend and front to be experts. Which is probably ok – considering the amount of time, money and energy they spent to get there. But what shocks me is that when I reveal their ignorance – instead of admitting it they front and lie on my face.

The most difficult thing for an Indian is to say is – “I don’t know”. As if by saying that, he/she might cause a big pain to their erudite heritage of India. Instead of admitting and getting on, they lie and keep lying at every point of their ignorance. Once admitted, ignorance doesn’t last. If I admit my ignorance, I am creating a space for learning in that space. But nope – it’s too much to take for an inflated ego to admit his ignorance.

I have worked with a friend who was a poster child for this kind of case. I would see him struggle with Javascript every day. Every frigging day! He would ask my help and in case he senses that I am getting  little restless with his ignorance, he would go and ask someone else. But to our boss he would always say that he can fix things with Javascript. This would make my boss’s job easy, but my colleague’s life was awful. He would struggle every day. I was so pissed off by his behavior that I actually gave him an electronic version of my Javascript book. Not only that, I said we will do the learning simultaneously and finish off the book in 1 month.

You would think that would change his mind. No. He refused to take my help and struggled all the time I was working there. I actually pity him. Only for once, if he could admit his ignorance and create a learning space, he would master it so fast that he would never need to ask for help from anyone. I kinda had a feeling that he liked his pain or he is just plain old moron. Some how he validated his pain with something and was ok with it. The biggest road block he himself created for him was “Admitting his ignorance”.

People skills of a butcher

Today, as my mom planned to cook Biryani for all us, I got up early to go to a butcher to buy some meat. In India it’s not like the meat is sold in a store. There is your traditional butcher and usually there is one in your neighborhood. The meat is usually certified by some Govt. organization and almost all of the time it’s Halal – even though it doesn’t make a big difference for me.

At 7:00AM, the place is packed. As usual in India we don’t have any lines or the concept of patience. Everyone there just falls on top of the butcher and is demanding meat.

Mohan bhai, when are you going to give me my 1/2kg meat? Should I just leave?“, threatens one guy. Another guy, who is chewing pan and stinks says in his loud voice (in the process almost spat on me) “Mohan bhai, take the money first. I have calculated it to be 240Rs and give me the meat“. Employing the age old trick of paying first and thereby inducing guilt in the butcher so that he can get served first. There were couple of old people who stood in silence. You know by their silence that they are very well known by the butcher and also these are the people who buy large amount of meat.

In all this chaos – I was amused to see how the butcher – Mohan manages the whole thing. His public skills are amazing. No matter who asks or yells, he talks in a hurried but nice tone. He calls everyone “bhai”(brother) and treats them as the most important person for his business. He has 4 people under him working and he reveals that he is paying them 300Rs (7$) per day wages. He puts it out as if he has to pay them a lot of money. Playing the guilt card when some guy refuses to pay the price quoted for meat. There is not fixed price. The price is fixed by Mohan bhai and usually it’s cheaper on Sundays as there would be at least 1000 people who buy it from him. 1 kg (2.2pounds) is Rs.180(4.5$), probably cheaper than US. But he is going to sell at least 500kg today – earning more than what a Software guy can earn in 2 weeks.

I got out of my thoughts, as Mohan asked me – “Kitta hona bhai?” (How much brother?). I said, “2 kgs”. As he prepared the meat for me, I was holding back the falling of at least 5 people on top of me. One guy almost poking under my armpit.

The lesson one could learn from Mohan bhai is – Treat your customers with praise and love even though they yell at you. But be assertive when it comes to price.

e-seva the iTunes of bill payment

Apple has a history of not to go with anything that has to do with streaming. Looks like Apple doesn’t believe in streaming. It has 3 technologies out there, which prove this point.

  1. Music – You need iTunes to download music on to your computer and then later put it on your iPod.
  2. Movies – You still need iTunes and then you can put it on your iTv and watch it on your TV
  3. Communications – You still need iTunes and then you can put stuff on your iPhone

So, it clearly shows how Apple deals with media. And there is a reason why Apple chose that way, it works. Period. This central place (iTunes) to manage all the media is the principle behind Apple’s way of doing things.

Lately, I came across similar principle here in India while paying our bills. In India (at least in AP, I am not sure of other states) you can pay your electricity, water and telephone bills through a service called “e-seva”, which literally means “electronic service”. It’s nothing but a wide set of offices dispersed throughout the city – and you can take your bills there to make a payment. Kinda like one place to pay off your bills. Just like iTunes.

I was wondering why didn’t the people who designed e-seva put the whole thing out there for normal people to access? Why can’t I go to the e-seva site and pay off my bills online? Couple of reasons come to mind –

  1. Internet penetration is not that dense
  2. Online payment requires, some sort of bank a/c or credit card – which is just picking up in India. India is still a largely cash based payment country.
  3. Language could be a barrier. A lot of people don’t read or write English which is most of the Internet is made up of.

But for now the e-seva system works fine. May be once all the above issues are resolved then may be I can make auto-payments of my electricity, water and telephone bills online as I used to do in US. May be once we all get 100MB pipelines to internet, Apple will offer iTunes’ online version which basically streams movies, audio etc. Till then e-seva and iTunes are just fine and work.

Worries of India

It’s amazing to see people in India who have access to the age old knowledge of “self” through Vedas, Upanishads and various mythological stories – that they don’t operate from that knowledge. More and more I come across people whose thoughts, words and actions are buried in worry. They act out of fear. They speak out of fear and constantly worry. The focus on what they don’t want is so immense and thick that they fail to realize that they are actualizing it. Some of the top worries I come across when I meet people.

  1. If you are single guy under 25 – worried about getting a job/right job
  2. If you are single guy over 25 – worried about going abroad and earning dollars
  3. If you are single girl under 25 – worried about finding a rich boyfriend who can take her out to Bottles & Chimneys
  4. If you are single girl over 25 – worried about finding a guy for marriage (Possibly a guy in #2)
  5. If you are a parent of a guy and poor – worried about son’s education
  6. If you are a parent of a guy and rich – worried about son’s worth in dowry
  7. If you are parent of a girl and poor – you are screwed
  8. If you are parent of a girl and rich – you are royally screwed
  9. If you are a parent and your kids are married off – you are worried of your son not taking care of you
  10. If you don’t have kids – you are worried about not having kids even though you know all the above are true!

So, one thing I do when I meet people like these are to say something good about the present situation. Being thankful about what they have and also try to talk about what they want rather than talk about what they don’t want. Sometimes people think that I am a weirdo because I didn’t add more worries to their collection.

Education – A bridge to bright future

Every parent I come into contact in India talks constantly about their kids’ education. In India education is held very high. Educated people are treated well and respected. With just 61% of literacy most Indians put a lot of emphasis on education. The most notable fact is that majority of Middle class people are well aware of the fact that only education can pull their families out of their financial troubles and save them from slipping into poverty.

That is the reason why the tuitions market in India is flourishing. When I leave for my J2EE class in the morning at 7am, I see throngs of students waiting for the bus. Everyone mostly aged between 15 and 25. They usually go to a Institute for some tuition and then go attend their college. Majority of these tuitions are computer based. SAP, Testing tools seem to be in heavy demand now. Some are aiming for US and UK. I have a cousin who is dreaming of US and preparing for TOEFL. His parents can’t afford to send him even if he gets through TOEFL well. They need at least 1.5 lakh Rupees (4000$) for his initial flight and applications etc. Once he gets a visa and admission into a college there in US they may have to spend more money. These parents are borrowing money at high interest rates from local lenders to send their son to US for education. Because deep inside they believe that once their son gets a good education, he will pay back all that money and pull them out of their poverty.

Education is the bridge which helps majority of middle class Indian people to pull themselves out of poverty.